it n&# 039; there is nothing complicated, recover a board and let's get to work!


Back garden with the soil that sticks to the soles of his boots, he must admit, it's not very pleasant. But take off his muddy boots can turn into a nightmare for anyone not equipped. Just a reminder, the first boot retires with the help of the other boot, but for the second, it is often a different story. In this delicate operation, it is not uncommon to sacrifice a sock when it is not in your hands. Fortunately, more now because great boot-jack is there to get you out of this mess!

Difficulty : way

Cost : Less than 10 euros

Tools required :

- a board

- a jigsaw

- P80 sandpaper

- a drill

- two wood screws and the corresponding bits

optional Tools :

- a grater

- an Axe

- a tight seal

- an electric planer

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  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack
  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

  • Making a boot-jack

    J-F. Mahe

     

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A plan would be useless, but to give some guidance.

- The length of the boot-jack of this example is 40cm, width 16cm, thickness 2cm.

Step 1 (Optional): Roughing

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

Here is a nice board recovery, a former barn oak floor. It will be perfect for the occasion. But he'll have to give it a semblance of balance. This is where the electric planer, for roughing. Of course, those who bought them brand new board and délignée stores do not require this step.

Step 2: The bilge elevation

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

Here is our board after a facelift. A piece cut at one end will serve as a wedge to elevate the part that allows binding the boot. Two schools, either on the edge or flat like here. For our use, garden and rubber boots, it is not necessary to excessively raise the boot-jack. But it will think about it if you intend it to other uses, such as city boots for women who often have high heels.

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

For various reasons, it may happen that we have to set foot on the boot puller before use. Mainly for the move, either by pulling or by pushing for closer or away. The wedge halfpipe avoids excessively violent flop effects when one places his foot on the axis of the boot-jack, allowing the board to tilt around gently. Obviously this is still an option, but it will give a little more and a side "rustic" in your achievement.

Step 3 (optional): Cale halfpipe

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

A block, a hatchet (or corner) to split the lump halfpipe. It will then smooth the underside of the wedge she marry well the surface of the board.

Step 4: Cut out the shape

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

There are no rules and it is for this reason that there is no plan. This mainly depends on the width of your boots. If you have children, provide a cut slightly pointed ends so that their little boots can get stuck. So avoid making a round shape too deep.

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

The jigsaw is required in this figure of speech. Take care to firmly secure your board with a clamp as in this picture. Follow your leisurely route and do not try to do everything in one go, once at the bottom, repeat on the other side to reach the previous cut.

Step 5: Grinding of the form

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

If your cutting the jigsaw is not perfect, a bit of a rasp is useful to catch any offset.

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

Sand cutting edges and the sides of the board, to avoid splinters. Sand everywhere, but simply made too careful not to sand the inside edge of the boot-jack, one that will pinch the boot.

Step 6: drilling, screwing

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

Whether the right wedge, or of the half-moon, it will have to pierce in order to avoid splitting the wood when tightening the screw.

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

Once pierced hold, repeat the operation with a diameter drill or above the head of your screw, that they do not exceed and do not scratch the floor. We pierce to a depth of 0.5 cm, it is quite sufficient to hide the screw heads (sometimes more convenient to drill the large diameter before breakfast).

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

It only remains to position the hold. Place hold two or three centimeters behind the bottom of the previous cut and screw.

Step 6a: Drilling a hole pre (in case of very hard wood)

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

Here, the wood is very hard, so we will have here also do a pre hole in the board. Screw shim final position until the screws mark the board. Remove the spacer and the drill plate over half its thickness. Then reposition the wedge and screw. This step could very well be at once (through the hold and the board).

Step 7: Fitting

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

That is, the boot-jack is over and you eager to put your boots to try.

Making a boot-jack
© J-F. Mahe

This French manufacturing is even equipped with a manual in color.

Quick tips :

- place your boot-jack near a railing or wall so you can hang up to something.

- If your boots are really muddy, remove the first boot with the end of the second not to mess the board where you will put your sock off the second boot.

- The latter is not a trick, but a little common sense. When possible, place your boot-jack away, it will save it to age prematurely, but this will also help in the event of rain, not to wet your socks.

- You wonder why trade bootjacks the taper at the other end. You're not alone. This reduces the overall stability of the boot-jack without bringing any benefit.